UKPassats

Also, given the well recorded issues with lubrication related damage to the top end of many many many 1.9TDi PD engines... I would be inclined to burn that book, vw or not, which says 3.7L and figure it out for myself hehehehe 196K miles, original turbo and camshaft. I've had it since 40K miles and...

I had undiagnosed loss; when I came to change the water pump it became obvious that my coolant had been leaking out of the water pump bearing seal and mostly evaporating on contact with the front of the engine. Was a right mess in there.

Thanks for that. I'll have a look when the weather fairs up. I've also noticed (probably due to belt stretch or things settling?) that the timing tensioner marker has moved back a few mm from the notch. I think that is why the factory manual warns against trying to "game" tightening the t...

You should at least have the water pump done, and new aux / AC belts. The belt kit comes with a new idler and tensioner. If your are paying dealer prices that is probably it. If you were doing it yourself the belts and braces would be to also do: Alternator pulley Aux belt tensioner AC tensioner (th...

Gazwould wrote:My VW handbooks say 4L so it looks like I did a good change , V5 engine is 4.7L , knew I'd seen it somewhere , lol .

Which handbooks are they, the user-manual type one? Interesting the discrepancy.

Fair enough. I am sure the info in the factory manual is right though, so I don't know why larger numbers get bandied around for this. I often see 4l quoted and I've never seen that number in any actual docs, and I've never heard anything as high as 4.7l on AVF/AWX.

I must be imagining this then ;) Source: AVFmanualTitle.png Info: oilcapacityAVF.png How are you measuring it? I buy my Total 507 in 1L bottles, and I know if I stuck 4 in I would be well over max (fill for me is usually 3 full bottles plus a little over half of one, leave me some top-up). I'm not s...

Hard plastic tubes with a wire running through it . I can't quite remember how much should usually come out as I normally tip clean oil in before the last . I got 4L used oil out today , capacity is 4.7 L ? Capacity is no where near 4.7L I thought... The factory manual says 3.6L with filter, 3.1L w...

I bought the supposedly correct Pierburg unit for my AVF engine, and it would throw a code every so often. Swapped it for a Bosch from GSF and the fault disappeared. There is a difference between where the GSF Bosch and ECP / CP4L Bosch MAF's come from; I recall reading about issues with the ECP sup...

Personally, I think the logic of hunting out a filter without ribs because you can clean it and get better performance for longer is pretty flawed. The original filter will have been carefully designed taking into account the application - filter media, reinforcement ribs, etc. VW won't have specifi...

Just buy a B5.5 full pollen filter housing from VW [emoji849] theyre only £16 with revised seal etc. I replaced my pollen filter housing for a genuine one. Had no issues since.... There's nothing revised about the seal from what I understand, it is just "new". The new seal will fail in a...

It is quite simple. The VW filter would have ribs. A correct filter from a major manufacturer for this vehicle will have ribs. If you've been sold a filter without ribs, and you look up the part number on the carton on the filter manufacturer's cross reference you will probably find it isn't a filte...

Tip - put the hex part of the tool in a strong bench vice, drop the alternator onto it so the spline key locates, and then use the long torx/spline bit to turn the alternator rotor off the pulley.. This way it is really easy. Doing it on the vehicle is just making the job a lot more difficult than i...

The very cheapest and easiest option is to use a spray contact cleaner with a straw nozzle, spray it at the base of the stalk and work it, and then a spray contact lube. I did mine over 50,000 miles ago and it fixed it with no further work, no disassembly or adjustment. I used this cleaner first to ...

For what it is worth, I speculatively changed my Bosch maf to the equivalent pierburg to try and improve running - car ran worse and would ocassionally throw a fault. Back to original Bosch and still working well at 185k

Beware the crankshaft pulley bolts - TPS gave me the wrong ones for my AVF based on chassis number lookup. There are two kinds with different heads and lengths

Is there any point getting it done by anyone who doesn't know how to correctly set the Raised Toe (S-curve?)

My waterpump was leaking; the engine heat would dry up the leaked coolant so there was no evidence.

Via ERWIN
http://www.ukpassats.co.uk/phpbb/viewto ... in#p711977

The 4xbolts holding the damping pulley to the crank gear are also single use; if you get these from TPS double check they give you the right ones. I was supplied the wrong ones despite providing my chassis number. They are either hex head or 12x spline I recall, of differing lengths.

Was it ECP then?

Well, you can use the right thing per the VW TSB, or the seal which is known to fail. The metal lip cuts into the surface of that seal, which then turns it from a seal into a wick. In case the OP wants details of the right thing, this is it .

That seal is the whole reason for failure. Even better, get a length of the proper sealing cord which is a thick butyl putty about the same thickness as the foam seal. With silicone you can never be totally sure if it is sealed, it stinks and makes a mess.

GSF really take the mick though, don't they? Every single weekend at the mo the stuff is nearly "half price". I reckon they're skirting pretty close to some of the pricing and advertising laws... I mean, you'd have to be a mug as a punter to buy anything off them mid-week. Maybe that's the...