UKPassats

Take it off and drive around it will be fine...in all seriousness im sure your local breakers will have one

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Welcome to ukp. I'm n.e. Too (Humberside) all the best

Jon

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Go up 5a see how it works out it could be a faulty led, contact or a split in the door loom shorting on the door itself

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When I fitted cheap pads to my b5 I noticed the whimpyness of the clip so I bent it out never got the rattle in all fairness it is common sense I just expand them so it hard to push the pad into the piston

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Last time your system was treated with an anti fungal/bacterial treatment? Id recommend a fortron ac treatment a nice green apple smell:)

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Not high enough its a car my friend not a landrover and even they flood

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Note for future, when fitting new pads also fit new anti-rattle clips its a golden BMW rule. I've had a few corkers with BMW 2 pot big brakes and the rattle clips turns out fatigue goes far even though they appear new. Sounds like you fixed it and best...you have genuine long lasting, low dust pads ...

Tried expanding the clips that hold it too the piston??

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Progress??

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All the stick pad does mate is hold the pad to the calliper a good design but sort of like an extra step to ensure no noise a good pad should fit as good as genuine but we all know how pattern parts work in real life LOL also try lubricating them using pagid ceratec its a non metallic lube so reduce...

Noisy injector... They are inside the head under the rocker cover on a pd buddy, perhaps the noisy injector is leaking fuel into the oil which is then increasing crankcase pressure meaning the oil pressure is higher and will push past turbo into inlet and then will run on the fuel oil mix. Sent from...

Try Bosch or textar or go the extra mile and buy ATE pads euro will buy them in if you ask nicely

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Id say check pipes for oil it sounds like the cut off valve is doing its job though also if the pedal goes dead in terms of voltage the engine will only idle it sounds to me like she's running on her own oil

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I'm on joms too and they are good for the money, not too rough but they eliminate the boat feeling you get out of standard shocks the ply thing I haven't done is adjust them evenly they look identical but now there settling the drivers is becoming lower and I've also had a fat friend in the passenge...

My ecp q-drive ones are cheap and seem to be holding out well after a year of abuse

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Iirc they are 288mm or 312mm, 312's won't accept 15"wheels

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I might try that ceratec next time not something I've heard of before I've always used copper slip as i get it for nothing :D I find it too squeel less since it is an all ceramic make up unlike the obvious in slip and it is also acid free so its more friendly to us and the metal in longterm Sent fr...

I would have avoided copper slip full stop, pagid ceratec is the best and at 2.90 a 250ml tub is good value, I clean up sliding pins and lube them with silicone spray and flush the rubbers and remove all traces of greases.

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They completely different cosmetically mechanically they are similar chassis wise but the engines are worlds apart afn is VE not PD etc there are little upgrades like cupholders and so on

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Head off or try and drill and tap it, id personally put up with the lumpy start its not exactly all year round is it...

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Run it at various revs with the cap off around 30-45 mins.

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All I do if it still fails is lift the boot and add some wd40 and clear any surface rust from the piston.

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E61 535d or x5 35d or an a6 3.0 tdi either way

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No

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Reason for edit: I was wrong.

Cheap tyres I had a cheap radial tyre fitted to my b5 had chassis ears on all 4 bearings at all speeds never found anything replaced pads and discs still there I put it down to tyres in the end

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