UKPassats

Check these links.... be careful as they may not be exactly your year and also some are for USA models so there may be slight differences, but it's better than nothing... https://sites.google.com/site/stoyneff/list-of-fuses-and-relays---b3-and-b4-passats http://forums.kilometermagazine.com/showthrea...

When you remove the trim to gain access to the relay board and fuses you will find a diagram of the fuse numbers and functions moulded into the back of it.

Just a thought..... I know you have already looked into the possibility of there being a factory immobiliser fitted, but does the car have an aftermarket alarm fitted?... if it does and even if it is no longer used, it could be the cause of your no start. If there is no aftermarket alarm present you...

The red wire goes to a terminal on the end of the solenoid, right next to where the thick cable connects. This red wire comes from the ignition switch and supplies 12v to the solenoid when you turn the key to the 'start 'position. The solenoid then energises, (which was the click noise you heard wit...

No need to feel foolish!

I looked for a photo before it dawned on me to follow the lead from the battery!

On a B3 auto the starter is just blow the ATF cooler and toward the front of the car, (right of the oil filter). It may be a bit different on your newer car. The easiest way to find the starter is by following the thick cable from the positive terminal of the battery.... it will go direct to the sta...

Your are not inept, you are just a Human Being!

The bloke who never made a mistake, never made anything.

Give both batteries a damned good charge.... you may find they both recover, you may find they do not and that you need another one.

Good luck!

Whether you do the job yourself of have it done elsewhere, make sure the power steering is refilled with the correct oil (there will be a part number marked on the reservoir). A lot of cars use Auto Transmissions Fluid (ATF) in the power steering, but if you use it in a VW it will damage the seals i...

Sounds like the seal is leaking. It is under enormous fluid pressure (something around 1'000 psi) so not really surprising that it gives out after some years. It is located under the flared end of the metal pipe. To gain access to it, hold the large nut still and unscrew the smaller one, then pull o...

It looks as if the part number for a crank sensor for the AGG is 037 906 433A, but check with a dealer before you start taking apart anything that will take time, as I cannot guarantee this is right, it is just what I have found at several places on the web. I will admit that I have not had any deal...

The L shaped metal pipe is actually a part of the high pressure hose that takes fluid from the pump to the steering rack. Photo: http://c1552172.r72.cf0.rackcdn.com/6190_x600.jpg If the pipe has failed you will need to replace the entire hose. To be sure of getting the right one it is necessary to k...

Can you please state the engine code for your car. I am guessing it is 2E, but please can you confirm. You can find the code on the 'options 'label which is on the boot floor under the carpet and on the inside cover of the service record book. It will look like this: http://dataton.net/vw/06GTI-rear...

I have looked into this a bit more and found that you can get 'nut removers', designed to remove a rounded nut or bolt while taking up the same space as a socket. I have no idea if they are any good, but if you do try this method be careful you do not snap the stud. http://s.ecrater.com/stores/17095...

I suppose it depends on the diameter of the pipe whether the nut splitter will fit over the nut, but you can also get open ended nut splitters for such situations: http://www.amazon.co.uk/BGS-technic-PRO-Splitter-3-24/dp/B000TBS228/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1381328977&sr=8-9&keywords=nut+sp...

I have no idea of what this all looks like or how much space you have, but before taking off a whole load of stuff you really do not want to take off, consider using a nut splitter, like this kind of thing: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NUT-SPLITTER-2mm-to-15mm-or-15mm-to-22mm-Threading-Mechanic-Tools-D...

The resistor can fail open circuit, but by far the more usual cause is the thermal fuse which you have already replaced. Did you crimp the new fuse in place rather than soldering it?.... if you soldered it in place it is almost certain that the heat from the soldering iron will have brought about th...

I used as small a screw terminal as I could find, but the solution offered by Monkeytennis is much neater than mine. Refer to this photo: http://www.autoconsumables.com/ekmps/shops/227sparts/images/electrical-crimp-connector-terminals-semi-insulated-spade-red-female-to-fit-6.3mm-tab-width-3352-p.jpg...

Check the earth connection between the engine/gearbox and the bodywork of the car, and also of course, the earth connection of the bodywork to the battery... a long shot but worth checking.

If the blower works on 3 as well as 4 then the thermal fuse is OK. Take a look behind the speed selector knob... you will see the metal contacts of the switch. You may well find the contacts for speed 1 and 2 are no longer in contact with each other and may need a little reforming (bending) back to ...

If the blower works only on max speed, have a look at this thread:

viewtopic.php?f=7&t=61997

American regulations require that the week and year of production of a tyre be shown on the sidewall. There are 2 different codings, pre and post 2000. Although not required in the rest of the world, these markings still appear on all tyres. Rather than try to explain it here I refer you to this lin...

Sounds like a nice neat fix, I will remember that if I ever need to do another one. Incidentally, if the new fuse soon fails, check the blower motor is not tight or binding. If it turns ok and is not tight, you will need to remove the motor from its plastic carrier, (you do so by pushing rubber supp...

A working speedo is NOT an MoT requirement :) A few years ago the speedo packed up on the old B3 we used to own. It was due to a plastic gear inside the final drive having come adrift and would have needed a gearbox removal and strip down to fix, (expensive). I spoke with my mechanic, (who lives jus...

I do not want to sound flippant, but you could always just use the speedo function on a sat nav if you want to avoid all this complication, though obviously you will have no milage display if you use a sat nav. Just a thought.

I expect you have a cubic coil as opposed to the earlier cylindrical type. There will be a label on it with a part number enabling you to ensure that you obtain the right part from a scrap yard (though you may find that different part numbers are interchangeable of course). I would not pay silly mon...