UKPassats

I would also say belt related. The steering has to work at it's hardest when the car is stationary, the noise is probably the belt slipping. It may just be loose or as MrDubber said, a sticky alternator clutch could be contributing. With the engine stopped you should be able to turn the alternator b...

looks like 3B2837016T for drivers door on a right hand drive car. You can get the VW parts Catalogue here: http://www.partscats.info/


Tom

Tom-2000
Just saw your last post. Don't worry I don't intend to drive it until I get to the bottom of this (except maybe 500yards to the nearest garage, that option looks quite likely...)

Tom

Tom-2000: That's what I've been thinking - just looking for ways out before I commit to paying someone. I don't feel up to doing a master swap and full brake bleed on the roadside at this time of year. mini-dub: I will take a look, but it doesn't feel detached if you see what I mean. Still kind of h...

Yeah that's what I thought. I can pull mine up an inch or more.

Sigh

Tom

Yeah, panel seems fine but I'm going to take it off later to be sure. I will probably try resetting the length of the plunger on the brake switch whilst I'm at it.

Do you mean a few mm measured at the switch/stop or at the foot pad?

Tom

thanks for your thoughts folks.

Can anyone confirm that the normal position for the brake pedal is up against the stop? (or if not, how much lower is normal)

This could all be a brake switch problem, but I doubt it somehow....

Tom

you sure it is a drain, and not a charging problem?

measuring a drain can be tricky, best if you can trick it into thinking the bonnet is closed then lock it and wait a minute or two to allow everything to 'sleep'.

Tom

I think it locks the boot, to be used in conjunction with a valet key.

no point with the estate as you can get in from the back seat, but I don't know how many saloons had them

Tom

ross tech have a fairly complete fault code list: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/00550 I guess you would know if you had put petrol in it? drain the water trap - quick easy and free Air leaking into the fuel lines is reasonably easy to check for- you can replace a section of fuel hose with...

To test plugs without removing them, pull off the connection and measure resistance between the terminal and ground (e.g. the engine head, but make sure you have a good connection). A reading of zero is a fault, as is a high reading. what is 'correct' depends on brand and engine temperature, but sho...

bit of long shot, but try having someone press firmly on the outside handle whilst you lock/unlock/pull the inside one.

sometimes if the cable to the outside handle is too tight it upsets the mech.

Tom

Hi folks, My GF drove the car over Christmas and reported the traction control light coming on, and losing power as it pulled away. She says she saw the glow plug light once as well. She later noticed the brake lights were always on. I've now had a look and the brake pedal is sitting a bit low, caus...

bit off topic but... ELM adapters are cheap enough and do work but only pull some information - on my 2001 130pd it gives: 01. Monitor status 04. calculated engine load 05. Engine coolant temperature 0B. Intake Manifold Pressure 0C. Engine RPM 0D. Speed 0E. Timing Advance 0F. Intake Air Temperature ...

Do you have an undertray?

I don't, and I get this a lot - water splashing on the belts. Causes heavy steering also. Pretty much any time the water is more than a 2-3 inches deep.

Tom

the thermostat was to blame, the engine was running a little rich to compensate for the low temperature. low temperature can reduce fuel vaporisation resulting in a poor burn.

could be a fuse, there is one on the back of the unit as well as the one in the fusebox.

Tom

split or diconnected vac pipes probably the prime candidate, can you hear any sucking/air noises? can't thelp on prices tho

there are adjusters in the cables under the car. before adjusting them you are supposed to take the pocket out of the centre console and lock the balance plate in the centre position. (at the back of the handbrake lever there is a small plate/rocker which eavens out the pull between the two cables) ...

did you run through standing water? mine allways does this on fords and floods, I think it's water in the belts as the power sterring goes heavy at the same time. (I have no undertray)

otherwise, yeah, as above.

passenger side looks a bit more complex. it might not work unless it can talk to the ccm. Try +ve to the red/blue and negative to red/white (both thick, pins 20 and 9), This should power up the unit. To drive the motor reconnect the switch or link pin 12 (probably thin, red/white) to pin 21 (green) ...

I had a look on elsa for a few different cars. late 90's matches what you listed. Should be as simple as powering those two thicker cables. (white/brown and white/green). One polarity for up and the other for down. be carefull because you are bypassing the overload/end-of-travel switches.

brown is generally earth (negative) in VWs. Getting the motor running could be quite difficult, which year is the car and whch door is it?

should run all the time but get faster as it gets hotter.

Andy_O wrote:
Also, on eurocarparts here

regards,

this is where I started but they list three different sizes

I see halfords only lists 096 though...