UKPassats

Try putting car in gear and rocking it forwards and backwards, also try starting in gear.

if you message T2000 on here he can help you out chap.

I have exact same engine and I got the map off him and did it myself. Very happy with it too.

Just my 2pence worth, what wheel and tyre combo are you running, and what tyre pressure? Have you tried reducing the tyre pressure?

mitchumb wrote: ↑Sat Apr 10, 2021 11:30 pm Still haven't had a problem with the honda, just thought I'd mention it

Wow, another 18 months of trouble free driving, please tell us more...

Then make them do it chap. It can be a PITA sorting the linkage out.

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Sorry can't help with the supply of seals, but shouldn't the garage who sorted the clutch be doing this for you chap?

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Sweet

It's on my list of things to do, however I did fit a new tensioner/belt and the sound only got slightly better, so I believe it could be the pump squealing.

I have the same engine and the same noise, my noise goes away if I use 'econ' instead of 'auto' on the climate control panel. I believe it's possibly the tensioner or the clutch squealing for the air con pump. If you press the 'econ' does it stop?

Just have a quick read here...

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/topic? ... source=app



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Great work chap, it's worth it in the end. I found that the two pipes that run along the front edge of the firewall (think they are fuel pipes) had worked loose on mine and were vibrating. I strapped the together with cloth tape and repaired the mounting that had worked loose. Sent from my SM-G770F ...

Maybe the bolts have loosened over time?

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Have you recentred it chap?

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Don't drive on bumpy roads [emoji23]

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Gazwould wrote:I don't think it's Police , I think it's oil autism

Good point haha but I can't make a joke at the expense of autism, but the police are fair game.

Keep up the good work [emoji16]

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ray112 wrote:
About removing alternator, it was simple for me, because I did viscous fan delete long years ago, so much more space in front and didn't need front to go in service position. Engine cooling happened with smaller electric fan.

Viscous fan delete?



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Interesting, they look identical to the Febi ones.

Cheers

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Can I ask where you got them from chap? Any links?

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Hey chap, just had a thought about this, will be worthwhile taking the bumper off too as there may be an issue with the vent at the bottom of the inner wing. I've put a picture below of what you will see when the bumper is removed. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210318/976571931177186ed7034c9f9a...

Alan Gunn wrote: ↑Tue Mar 16, 2021 6:11 am Just thought i would sat thanks to Water01 for all your hard work.

Absolutely agree, this forum has helped me so much over the past soo many years that it's definitely appreciated all the work behind the scenes.

Interesting reading...

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I know from past experience that both sides of mine usually have some water in them. I cannot remember if when the wheel arch liner is removed there are any other places behind that that could allow water in, or whether the fuel filler area could allow water ingress. Have you checked both of these?

Gazwould wrote: ↑Tue Mar 09, 2021 8:47 pm

ray112 wrote: ↑Tue Mar 09, 2021 7:19 pm A lot depends on who is testing. If it's a knob head who wants to fail it, he will trash pedal to floor and high smoke reading is most likely expected. If you apply pedal slowly, a lot better result will be achieved.

Guess what he's never used ?

His indicators?

Well what can I say.... If you want even lower pull the fuse ! My other car with 2.1L displacement with two turbos and a plate value of 0.50 with a delete and an off blew a 0.10 fast pass , fondly dosed with 2 Stroke and 2-EHN :D Nope, I'm happy with the result, it aint a competition :D :D

It has barely covered 3000 miles since it's last MOT, so I wasn't worried really. I was only concerned about the smoke test as the car was driven less than a mile to the MOT garage this morning through town, so wouldn't have time to get some good heat into it. I imagined it 'may' fail as last year i...