Outer CV Boot/Joint change - noobs guide written by a noob!

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Rich00p
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Outer CV Boot/Joint change - noobs guide written by a noob!

Post by Rich00p »

I'm no mechanic (as you will find out at the end!) previously to this I've only ever changed oil and fitted coilovers so approached this with some caution, but I aim to make someones life a little bit easier by doing this simple guide! the car in question is 2002 PD130 AWX engine

So, your tools list should include

2 x Axel stands
1 x Torque Wrench
1 x breaker bar/wheel bolt bar
1 x Wratchet
1 x set of circlip pliars
1 x Flat head screw driver
1 x M10 Spline Socket
1 x 17mm Hex socket (or adaptor)
1 x Joint kit consisting of: joint,boot,bolt,circlip,spacer,convex washer, retainer clips, greese (models may vary)
1 x masking tape

Ok, some parts of the process are pictured some are not, where I'll try to explain in detail as best as possible

If you have alloy wheels, you'll need to start by popping the centre cap out to gain access to the hub bolt in the middle, I had to jack the car up take the wheel off pop the cap out and put the wheel back on, you need to put the wheel back on to stop the drive shaft moving when loosening the hub bolt.

So with the cap off, take your 17mm hex socket and breaker bar and loosen the hub centre bolt, only loosen, don't remove at this stage.

Now jack the car up (enough to get under it) remove the wheel, secure with axel stands in the appropriate places, get under the car with your flat head screw driver and loosen the 5 clips holding the rear engine tray in place and remove to reveal the gearbox, you should have something that looks like this (models may vary)
Image

Make sure the car is in gear to stop the drive shaft from moveing, take your M10 spline socket and start to remove the 6 bolts holding the drive shaft flange on to the gearbox, these should be torqued to 54lbft according to mr haynes.

With the shaft released at one end, come out from under the car, turn the steering wheel to full right lock to gain clearance for the shaft to be removed.
Image

Take your 17mm hex socket and undo the remaining thread on the hub bolt and remove, you may want to get under the car again and support the shaft, tilt the shaft on the gear box side toward the bonnet and pull the spline out from the hub.
Image

Remove the drive shaft from the car and inspect both CV boots for damage, at this point if you're working alone this is where a vice with some padding comes in handy, if not just ask your friendly father in law to lend a hand.

Remove the boot retaining clips (I cut mine off) and push the old boot off the CV joint, take care to make sure the joint is not on an angle (pictured) so as not to drop the bearings on the floor if the joint is to be re used.
Image

Now you need to remove the old joint and boot from the drive shaft, take your circlip pliars and prize the clip in the spline groove apart, remove and slide the spacer and convex washer down the shaft
Image

Place the shaft in your vice (or father in laws hands) and thread your M16 bolt in to the CV spline until the joint comes free from the shaft,if you have hollow drive shafts, you'll discover as I did that this method doesn't work so I resorted to using a big f*****g hammer to pursuede the joint to come off the spline.
Image

Now take your shaft, mask tape over the spline, grease up the inside ring of your new boot and push over the drive shaft, followed by (in this order) inner circlip placed in to the groove, convex washer,plastic thrust washer (see last line below)

Now load up your CV joint with new CV grease, Haynes syas up to 120 grams, I just used lots, pack your CV boot with grease also.
Image

Take your joint, line up the splines and tap the joint down the shaft with a rubber mallet or similar
Image

Fit new boot retainers on the inner and outer line of the boot and tighten, your driveshaft is now ready for re fitting and in true Haynes stylee, refitting is the reverse of removal!

Image

Remember to torque up the 6 driveshaft flange bolts and the centre hub bolt to the specified torque levels!!!!

Oh, and one more thing, don't put it all back together then suddenly realise when you're looking through the photos that you've fitted the convex washer and plastic washer on the wrong side of the inner circlip and have to remove the whole lot again to change it :mrgreen: (the method listed above is correct)
Image

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