Passat Steering Lock fix (Applies to B6/B7 and CC models)

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t0nito
Posts: 1
Joined: Sun Jan 26, 2020 2:20 pm
Passat model: B7

Passat Steering Lock fix (Applies to B6/B7 and CC models)

Post by t0nito »

Had this problem for a few months now where there was the "Steering Lock Defective" error would pop up, or the car would start for a second then just off again or the ignition lights would take a while to light up, so I fixed it. I ordered a pair of micro switches. Took me about 3 hours total to do the job start to finish. Here are the steps just in case anyone else needs the info for their B7's, I'll try to be as detailed as possible.

1. Pull the lever under the column and adjust it pulling toward you and pushing it down. Turn the wheel 90º to one side, on the seam between the top and bottom half of the steering cowl insert a thin flat blade tool and twist upward to release the clip holding the halves together. Turn the wheel the opposite way and do the same procedure, you will find a torx screw securing the bottom half on each side, remove them. Under the cowl you will find another torx screw remove that one too. On the adjuster handle you will find another bigger torx screw securing the handle, remove that too. After that lift the top half of the cowl toward the gauges you will see it is hinged to the bottom half, pull it out a bit to come free from the bottom half and fold it up toward the gauges to keep it out of the way. The bottom half should be able to come out now.

2. Remove the bottom plastic cover behind the pedals to gain access to the universal joint by removing the two plastic flat blade screws, you will find that the right one will be easier to remove if you press the gas pedal to keep out of the way.

3. Unscrew the three torx screws holding the plastic panel below the steering column, (the plastic cover where the OBD plug is attached to) it has a clip right next to the middle screw holding it up, pull it down to release, you don't have to remove it completly just let it drop on top of the pedals.

4. Remove the ventilation duct by removing one torx screw on the left and pull it to the left to remove it. (on LHD vehicles)

5. At this point you want to DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL as you will now start removing plugs, there are three plugs attached to the steering column. There are two at the front and one at the back attached to the steering lock, there is a small red tab on each plug that you pull out to unlock the plug and detach it. The back plug is a bit more challenging as it far behind in a tight space, open the storage compartment on the left side (on LHD vehicles) push the plastic stopper up so you can pull the door all the way down for easier access to the plug. There is also an 8 mm ground nut you have to remove to remove the ground wire from it.

6. You must release the wire harness from the steering column to be able to remove it. You will notice that the harness goes through a plastic housing on the bottom half of the column and a clip on the upper half. To remove the housing there are two plastic tabs on the bottom side, push them in and pull the housing off of the column. Pull the clip on the upper half of the column. At this point we are ready to remove the column itself.

7. There are five 13 mm bolts you have to remove, one is on the universal joint at the bottom and four are holding the column itself, I kept it safe and I made a line with a thin marker on the universal joint and where it is connected to so that later you can align it exactly as it was. Unscrew the two bottom bolts holding the column, you will see that both those screws also holds a metal bar on each side, remove them. Pull the universal joint upward to detach it, if you are not able to remove it at this point leave it there for now. Now, I recommend pulling the driver's seat forward at this point, remove the two upper bolts carefully, I recommend loosening them first so you can unscrew them by hand so you can hold the steering wheel while unscrewing them so it won't fall on you suddenly. The reason I said to pull the seat forward is so you can now rest the steering wheel/column on your seat once it is free. If you were not able to remove the U joint before you can do it now that the wheel is resting on the seat.


8. Finally you can pull the whole thing out of the car. Put the column on a soft surface in order to not scratch/damage the steering wheel. You will find the steering lock at the bottom, held with two security screws. I used a dremel to cut a slot on each screw to be easy to remove and also you can reuse the screws again.


9. Finally you have the thing that brought all that trouble in your hands. A word of caution, be very careful and delicate when opening it, don't shove anything in there carelessly because if you damage the PCB inside you will need a brand new lock and have it reprogrammed to your car, it is part of the immobiliser system and if it is damaged you won't be able to start your car. The lock's plastic cover has melted plastic "revets" on the bottom side, break them, there is a small tab on each side on the screw side, push them in while CAREFULLY prying the cover out, you will notice a snap noise, don't worry it is just the anti-tamper spring locking the lock pin out. After the housing is removed first thing you do, on the side where it was screwed to the column there is a black plastic piece and a spring that slides back and forth, that is part of the anti-tamper device, REMOVE THEM COMPLETELY and don't put them back. If you don't the lock won't work, you don't want to find out that steering won't unlock and the car won't start after putting it all back together. Again, REMOVE THE ANTI-TAMPER device.


10. After having the thing open, you will see that the PCB is held in with three small torx screws, remove them, then pull the PCB out by wiggling gently while pulling out, there are two blades that connect from the PCB to the motor that's why there is some resistance while pulling it out. after you have the PCB in your hands, unsolder the two micro switches and replace with new ones.

11. From here on you just have to reverse the entire process. After putting the plastic cover back, melt the plastic pins on the back again to keep it secure. Don't forget to put the spring that pushes the locking pin out. After reassembly make sure the locking pin springs freely in and out before putting it back on the column.

I hope I didn't leave anything out. Feel free to make any questions. If you have VCDS or OBDeleven you can clear the faults, there will be at least one on the engine module because of the immobiliser cutoff and another on the steering module because of the implausible signals from the lock.

Good luck!
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